A couple of weeks ago I attended IST (In-Service Training) at Marapyane College; this is where our initial training took place from July to September last year. It was strange to revisit the place that held the initial emotions, memories, and impressions of this country. Not to mention the college looked like a jungle. When last there is was winter; summer has turned the brick walkways into fields of reeds. It looked ridiculously abandoned, which in a way it is. In short, the week was informative about HIV/AIDS, or as they like to say “healthy living” because HIV/AIDS is a phrase that makes people turn their listening ears off. We also met our new country director (who was a CD in Lesotho, and Ghana previously), had a session on mental health (which I loved and needed), a session on trees and gardens, and a few sessions run by PCV’s on successful programs they have created. The week also allowed catching up with the 33 volunteers who remain from the 44 that flew into Jo’burg in July. Each night was a drinking adventure- there was a bonfire, séance (well mostly a nice session of sharing while sitting cross-legged in candlelight), beer pong tournament, and a showing of The Dark Knight on a projector.
I have continued with my teaching of Natural Science and each day I enjoy it a bit more. The learners have begun to understand my expectation that they answer questions when called on and that they mustn’t fear me. Since critical thinking is severally lacking learners are not usd to coming up with their own ideas. They expect each question to have one correct (memorized) answer. Which reminds me that yesterday Karabo came into my room looked at my computer and in unison with her friend said a school-given definition of what a computer is and does. I have also begun working with Reneilwe, a foundation phase teacher, on the Eco-School Student Council. This is a group of 12 learners in grades 4-7 who will be the leaders in the coming year regarding the environmental initiatives and projects that the school takes on. We began today by addressing the issue of rubbish (and nutrition in a round about way). You see kids here eat cheese snaks/ zimbas (essentially cheetos in a variety of colors and flavors) for breakfast, snack, and dinner. When finished the wrappers are tossed onto the ground. They’re cheap and they’re sold on school grounds. So the ESSC made a box and collected all the wrappers of zimbas/snaks during their short break. They plan on using these wrappers as a shocking visual for an upcoming program and then using them in a to-be-determined art project. Please let me know if you have ideas. I say multiple times a day “The world is not your rubbish bin” and then insist the children pick up their garbage.
This past Friday my principal asked if I wanted to go to a workshop in Jo’burg. In a morning haze I agreed. Only after agreeing did he tell me he would pick me up from my home at 4:30am the next morning. So with the sun still sleeping I arrived at his home. 14 educators, 1 principal, and one sleepy volunteer climbed into a coombi at 5am. I took one for the team and sat in the far back seat, right hand side. Anyone who has ridden a coombi knows that this seat has an easily accessibly window (YAY!) and also a wheel indention that forces you to crunch up your legs (:BOO!). This particular coombi also had an unattached back seat which means that we leaned forward for the entirety of our 3.5 hour drive to Jo’burg. Luckily I slept for an hour or so. **SIDENOTE: I have never been to Jo’burg because we are not allowed there as PCV’s, it has over 100 murders a day. I had to receive special permission for this day trip. I figured I would get a small tour of the city maybe. . . ** I woke up only to find that the workshop was being held in a clearly affluent suburb of Jo’burg and a tour of the city was out of the question. St. Stithian’s College, a school for grades R-12, was the venue. The tuition for the school is R7000 a month!! That is far more than any teacher or average S. African could afford to pay! So the children of the rich attend this school and Africaaner teachers led the sessions. We began the day in true South African fashion with tea and biscuits followed by a prayer and gospel reading. From there we had a 1.5 talk on OBE (Outcomes Based Education) which is the current educational curriculum. Then a half hour tea and sandwich break. Finally we had an hour talk on how a classroom should be decorated to motivate students. Yes, that is it. 2.5 hours of lecture and back into the coombi we went. When I found out that this was the first of 10 Saturday workshops I knew I couldn’t justify attending another one. 8 hours of travel for less than 3 hours of lecture. Can you believe that not one other person complained about the travel time? And even more shocking- not one person brought a single reading material or activity along to occupy them during the hours of travel. They simply slept or looked out the window for 8 hours. I was in complete disbelief.
On an unrelated note: I received 3 FABULOUS care packages from my mom and sisters:-) In addition to many self-indulgent treats (jewelry, clothes, perfume, snacks, burst bees, etc) they gave me a soccer ball- which has already been worn in and punctured by barbed wire (about 15 boys play on a nearby football field each day after school now, thanks to this gift.) For the tiny boys I received 10 matchbox cars. I gave one to each boy and immediately they held races, built tracks in the sand, again after 2 days the cars looked as if they had been here for years. Then for the older girls I received earring hooks and beads. So we have made earrings out of beads, rocks wrapped in wire, and even from the feathers that the neighborhood boys bring me after slingshot birds. Also I received random toys (stuffed zebra, coloring books, fun hair ties, etc) and whenever I hand out these things I know I am really making the child feel special. So thanks a lot mom, Ab, Morg, these small things make the children ridiculously happy (and me too!).
Thursday, February 12, 2009
Monday, February 9, 2009
Twenty Five
Saturday I took a 3.5 hour coombi ride to and from Jo’burg so I decided to take the time to indulge in reading the “25 things” lists on facebook. I loved it! So if you have written one, chances are I read it while crammed between 3 women and a window (with my feet crunched up on the ledge of the tire indent). I thought it was interesting and decided to post it here as well.
1. My facial expressions speak far more words than I can.
2. I love road trips: organizing directions, seeing the countryside, hanging my toes out the window, singing terribly, and going into gas stations.
3. I have a serious roach problem in my bedroom- but it may be better than the roach problem at my last apartment in Chicago, gross.
4. I had my ear pierced 3 days ago and it is hurting like hell! That brings my body hole count to 6.
5. I miss toilets. I miss hearing the flush, I miss the confidence that flies and rats will not touch my body, but most of all I miss checking the fruits of my labor.
6. I love picking, popping, and tweezing- anything on anyone.
7. I love and miss my mom, Ab, Morg, Jer, dad, and animals everyday.
8. I have not attended church regularly since high school. I experience Catholic guilt every time that I sleep in when at my parent’s house on a Sunday, even though my mom has never gone to church. I hate it.
9. My perfect home would have a claw foot tub, a porch swing, a winding staircase, a firepole (i.e. Vandenbergs!), a loft, a room to mess up (throw spaghetti, paint, wax on the walls/floors, etc.) and acres of space for love to blossom.
10. I don’t know what I want to be when I grow up. But I am looking into Master’s programs all the time. Ideally I will become an artist of some sort.
11. I love (and miss) family dinners which are inevitably full of laughter, ridicule, and love. Plus there’s the food: cedar plank grilled salmon/pork tenderloin, bacon bacon dip with crackers, baked potatoes, asparagus, salad, red wine.
12. Anything that is made of recycled materials excites and inspires me, I hope to one day live on recycled pieces alone.
13. I dream I’m flying nearly every week (Last night included).
14. I am so happy. Ever since arriving in South Africa I have reclaimed myself- my dancing, sporadic, free spirited self.
15. I have not stepped on the middle step at my parent’s house since I was 10 or so (avoid it even with boxes/laundry piled high, even when washing the steps).
16. I really love hearing my mom tell me random stories that have happened when we talk on Sundays. (ex: Our obese dog Emma had to have a toe amputated; now she wears a bootie and needs to be lifted up the steps. One late night Emma sat at the bottom of the stairs and cried because she wanted to be in my parent’s room. Jerry woke from a sound sleep walked downstairs picked Emma up and dropped her at the top of the stairs and without a sound went back to bed.)
17. Out of boredom I spend too much time at my computer in this country, I need to change this.
18. I love Chicago- the El, the winter, the neighborhoods, the summer festivals, the free adventures, the museums, the lakefront, the people, parks, random encounters, the music venues, the art on every corner.
19. I love the connection, motion and emotion of live music.
20. I don’t like mayo-based salads or the hodge podge salads where you don’t know what you’re eating. I also don’t like cilantro, spicy foods, or ricotta cheese.
21. I love bloody mary’s- must have celery salt, Worchester, pepper, salt, celery stick, pickle, olive, small amount of Tabasco, pickle juice and served over ice. (I miss Edgewater Lounge!)
22. Cliché but true: I love that even though my best friends and I have lived in different states/countries for the past 5 years we manage to communicate frequently and never miss a beat when we reunite.
23. I like giving and receiving surprises. I suffer when trying to delay gratification.
24. I hate American consumerism (but buying a new outfit every once in a while does make me happy).
25. I use less than 10L of water a day- this includes drinking, washing self, washing dishes, cooking, etc.
1. My facial expressions speak far more words than I can.
2. I love road trips: organizing directions, seeing the countryside, hanging my toes out the window, singing terribly, and going into gas stations.
3. I have a serious roach problem in my bedroom- but it may be better than the roach problem at my last apartment in Chicago, gross.
4. I had my ear pierced 3 days ago and it is hurting like hell! That brings my body hole count to 6.
5. I miss toilets. I miss hearing the flush, I miss the confidence that flies and rats will not touch my body, but most of all I miss checking the fruits of my labor.
6. I love picking, popping, and tweezing- anything on anyone.
7. I love and miss my mom, Ab, Morg, Jer, dad, and animals everyday.
8. I have not attended church regularly since high school. I experience Catholic guilt every time that I sleep in when at my parent’s house on a Sunday, even though my mom has never gone to church. I hate it.
9. My perfect home would have a claw foot tub, a porch swing, a winding staircase, a firepole (i.e. Vandenbergs!), a loft, a room to mess up (throw spaghetti, paint, wax on the walls/floors, etc.) and acres of space for love to blossom.
10. I don’t know what I want to be when I grow up. But I am looking into Master’s programs all the time. Ideally I will become an artist of some sort.
11. I love (and miss) family dinners which are inevitably full of laughter, ridicule, and love. Plus there’s the food: cedar plank grilled salmon/pork tenderloin, bacon bacon dip with crackers, baked potatoes, asparagus, salad, red wine.
12. Anything that is made of recycled materials excites and inspires me, I hope to one day live on recycled pieces alone.
13. I dream I’m flying nearly every week (Last night included).
14. I am so happy. Ever since arriving in South Africa I have reclaimed myself- my dancing, sporadic, free spirited self.
15. I have not stepped on the middle step at my parent’s house since I was 10 or so (avoid it even with boxes/laundry piled high, even when washing the steps).
16. I really love hearing my mom tell me random stories that have happened when we talk on Sundays. (ex: Our obese dog Emma had to have a toe amputated; now she wears a bootie and needs to be lifted up the steps. One late night Emma sat at the bottom of the stairs and cried because she wanted to be in my parent’s room. Jerry woke from a sound sleep walked downstairs picked Emma up and dropped her at the top of the stairs and without a sound went back to bed.)
17. Out of boredom I spend too much time at my computer in this country, I need to change this.
18. I love Chicago- the El, the winter, the neighborhoods, the summer festivals, the free adventures, the museums, the lakefront, the people, parks, random encounters, the music venues, the art on every corner.
19. I love the connection, motion and emotion of live music.
20. I don’t like mayo-based salads or the hodge podge salads where you don’t know what you’re eating. I also don’t like cilantro, spicy foods, or ricotta cheese.
21. I love bloody mary’s- must have celery salt, Worchester, pepper, salt, celery stick, pickle, olive, small amount of Tabasco, pickle juice and served over ice. (I miss Edgewater Lounge!)
22. Cliché but true: I love that even though my best friends and I have lived in different states/countries for the past 5 years we manage to communicate frequently and never miss a beat when we reunite.
23. I like giving and receiving surprises. I suffer when trying to delay gratification.
24. I hate American consumerism (but buying a new outfit every once in a while does make me happy).
25. I use less than 10L of water a day- this includes drinking, washing self, washing dishes, cooking, etc.
Thursday, January 22, 2009
Gobama!
On Tuesday I asked my learners if they knew what historical event was taking place that day. The first student I called on said one word, “Obama.” Thanks to television advertisements the inauguration was known throughout my community. Not until I arrived home did I learn that it was going to be broadcast live on one of the three channels my family gets. It turns out all three of the channels are owned by the South Africa Broadcasting Corporation (SABC1, SABC2, SABC3). Generally I grimace at these channels due to their power, manipulation, and mind games. But on Tuesday I took all my cruel words back- at 6:00 SABC2 broadcast live coverage of the greatest transition I have seen.
I sat down in my family’s family room and for the first time since the election I watched TV. As I sat alone on the velour couch I began sweating and sticking to the couch in the darkness of the evening. I saw Dick in his wheelchair and laughed, Aretha with her big bow and I laughed, Yo yo ma and company and I began getting goosebumps. By the time Obama’s nervous words were being spit out for his oath I was unsure whether I tasted the salt of my tears or sweat. Just as he took the podium to speak my host father took a seat. We were both shocked at the 2 million people gathered. How I wish I was one of them. I cannot think of words to describe the pride I have in my country, my president, and our nation’s future.
I remember being very young and thinking the Peace Corps sounded like a cool idea. When I finally applied over a year and a half ago I just thought it was a natural transition. Now, only now now do I feel ridiculous pride in my being an American abroad.
Wednesday morning I was greeted by my principal with an extended handshake and by the assistant principal saying “Congratulations Mr. President.” (This phrase has been repeated dozens of times already!) Today, Thursday at school I entered the boardroom (where the makes eat) and heard several comparisons between our inauguration and those that have occurred here. For one, nobody understands that Obama was reading a teleprompter. They were amazed at his ability to memorize (“. . . I mean did you see the woman after him, she couldn’t even memorize a short poem!”) Then they were amazed that he only spoke for 15 minutes or so; here the president would speak for hours. Then there was the comparison between Obama and Mandela (support from the people, black president, symbolism of freedom). Finally, how could the Americans not give applause to the orchestra musicians . . . not even sound. Again I had to explain that the microphones were probably to blame . . . I’m sure the crowd was deafening.
I am so looking forward to the next 4 years!
I sat down in my family’s family room and for the first time since the election I watched TV. As I sat alone on the velour couch I began sweating and sticking to the couch in the darkness of the evening. I saw Dick in his wheelchair and laughed, Aretha with her big bow and I laughed, Yo yo ma and company and I began getting goosebumps. By the time Obama’s nervous words were being spit out for his oath I was unsure whether I tasted the salt of my tears or sweat. Just as he took the podium to speak my host father took a seat. We were both shocked at the 2 million people gathered. How I wish I was one of them. I cannot think of words to describe the pride I have in my country, my president, and our nation’s future.
I remember being very young and thinking the Peace Corps sounded like a cool idea. When I finally applied over a year and a half ago I just thought it was a natural transition. Now, only now now do I feel ridiculous pride in my being an American abroad.
Wednesday morning I was greeted by my principal with an extended handshake and by the assistant principal saying “Congratulations Mr. President.” (This phrase has been repeated dozens of times already!) Today, Thursday at school I entered the boardroom (where the makes eat) and heard several comparisons between our inauguration and those that have occurred here. For one, nobody understands that Obama was reading a teleprompter. They were amazed at his ability to memorize (“. . . I mean did you see the woman after him, she couldn’t even memorize a short poem!”) Then they were amazed that he only spoke for 15 minutes or so; here the president would speak for hours. Then there was the comparison between Obama and Mandela (support from the people, black president, symbolism of freedom). Finally, how could the Americans not give applause to the orchestra musicians . . . not even sound. Again I had to explain that the microphones were probably to blame . . . I’m sure the crowd was deafening.
I am so looking forward to the next 4 years!
Friday, January 16, 2009
Traditional Medicine
I have not stepped on the middle step of the staircase in my parent’s home since I was very young. It began as a superstition and now it’s just habit. Even if I am washing the steps or carrying a towering load of laundry I skip the step.
In South Africa I find people hold superstitions to be God-given truths. As I mentioned in a previous blog there are ideas that eating out of a pot means it will rain on your wedding day- if you sweep dust onto a man he will never get married.
Then there are great powers that people give to their ancestor’s spirits. My host father built a rondeval because his ancestors came to him in a dream. People wear bracelets and/or anklets because their ancestors will cure illness if they wear such things and then perform rituals. (I currently am sporting an anklet and it’s been the topic of many conversations. I just say it’s part of my culture.)
Well my favorite teacher, Renilwe, has been wearing large bracelets and anklets since I met her. She always dresses in long skirts and wears a head scarf. Last year she told me she wears such things because her ancestors make her. On Monday we were reunited and I noticed she looked exhausted. Upon discussion I come to find out she spent the entirety of her summer vacation at a “seminar.”
Heres the story: 2 years ago her ancestors came to her in a dream and put this illness upon her. It was to drain her of energy and make her tired until she finally “took care” of the problem. So this summer she decided she didn’t want to be bound to the ancestors anymore. She ventured to a nearby town and found a traditional doctor. He said there was enough space for her to study with him for the remainder of the vacation. She immediately dropped everything- went home- collected a few clothes- and called her mother “I’m leaving, find out who will care for my children.”
For a month she slept on the ground and did not leave a small room except at dusk to find certain herbs. The doctor taught her what herbs treat what symptoms and how to grind different plants together for treatments. She also prayed a lot and slept very little. Hence she was exhausted upon returning to school. Now that she has completed the course the coming months will allow her to blossom and return to the old, happy Renilwe. Her bracelets and anklets will be cut off and her spirit will be free of the burdens.
Here’s the corker. Guess how much she paid for this “seminar.” R10,000! Eish!
In South Africa I find people hold superstitions to be God-given truths. As I mentioned in a previous blog there are ideas that eating out of a pot means it will rain on your wedding day- if you sweep dust onto a man he will never get married.
Then there are great powers that people give to their ancestor’s spirits. My host father built a rondeval because his ancestors came to him in a dream. People wear bracelets and/or anklets because their ancestors will cure illness if they wear such things and then perform rituals. (I currently am sporting an anklet and it’s been the topic of many conversations. I just say it’s part of my culture.)
Well my favorite teacher, Renilwe, has been wearing large bracelets and anklets since I met her. She always dresses in long skirts and wears a head scarf. Last year she told me she wears such things because her ancestors make her. On Monday we were reunited and I noticed she looked exhausted. Upon discussion I come to find out she spent the entirety of her summer vacation at a “seminar.”
Heres the story: 2 years ago her ancestors came to her in a dream and put this illness upon her. It was to drain her of energy and make her tired until she finally “took care” of the problem. So this summer she decided she didn’t want to be bound to the ancestors anymore. She ventured to a nearby town and found a traditional doctor. He said there was enough space for her to study with him for the remainder of the vacation. She immediately dropped everything- went home- collected a few clothes- and called her mother “I’m leaving, find out who will care for my children.”
For a month she slept on the ground and did not leave a small room except at dusk to find certain herbs. The doctor taught her what herbs treat what symptoms and how to grind different plants together for treatments. She also prayed a lot and slept very little. Hence she was exhausted upon returning to school. Now that she has completed the course the coming months will allow her to blossom and return to the old, happy Renilwe. Her bracelets and anklets will be cut off and her spirit will be free of the burdens.
Here’s the corker. Guess how much she paid for this “seminar.” R10,000! Eish!
Thursday, January 15, 2009
Teaching?
I enter the classroom. In unison and in a robotic tone 36 learners stand and say:
“Good morning Madam M-oh-lly”
“Good morning” I say
“How are you Madam M-oh-lly”
“I am great, thanks! How are you?” (By my saying “great” instead of “fine” I trip them up a bit.)
“We are fine Madam. Thank you Madam.”
It’s the beginning of a new school year and I have begun teaching grade 4 Natural Science. This year at Mannyetha School we have 770 learners and 24 teachers. Grade 4 has over a hundred learners and so I will be teaching 3 1-hour classes twice a week.
Yesterday was my first class. I began by having students write their name and village on a note card. Then I thought I would have them write a science-related question. I explained that I was looking for a question we may be able to study at some point during the year; for example: why is the weather hot? After two minutes of examples and explanation I asked for a volunteer to give their own example of a science-related question. The learner I called on said “chair.” Wow. The next learner I called said “Why is the weather hot?” So I informed the class that they had to think of their own question- no repeating of my examples.
Later I looked through the cards and the most frequent question was “Why is the weather cold?” Other responses included: random words “cold, water, hose,” “Why I wi lafing” (Why are we laughing?), “Why is the house dirty?”, “Pen is not heavy.” “Why the tree shakes?” “Why is my mom going?” and “Why don’t I have the red color?”
This is going to be a long year. Thankfully I have other projects that may prove to be more fruitful.
“Good morning Madam M-oh-lly”
“Good morning” I say
“How are you Madam M-oh-lly”
“I am great, thanks! How are you?” (By my saying “great” instead of “fine” I trip them up a bit.)
“We are fine Madam. Thank you Madam.”
It’s the beginning of a new school year and I have begun teaching grade 4 Natural Science. This year at Mannyetha School we have 770 learners and 24 teachers. Grade 4 has over a hundred learners and so I will be teaching 3 1-hour classes twice a week.
Yesterday was my first class. I began by having students write their name and village on a note card. Then I thought I would have them write a science-related question. I explained that I was looking for a question we may be able to study at some point during the year; for example: why is the weather hot? After two minutes of examples and explanation I asked for a volunteer to give their own example of a science-related question. The learner I called on said “chair.” Wow. The next learner I called said “Why is the weather hot?” So I informed the class that they had to think of their own question- no repeating of my examples.
Later I looked through the cards and the most frequent question was “Why is the weather cold?” Other responses included: random words “cold, water, hose,” “Why I wi lafing” (Why are we laughing?), “Why is the house dirty?”, “Pen is not heavy.” “Why the tree shakes?” “Why is my mom going?” and “Why don’t I have the red color?”
This is going to be a long year. Thankfully I have other projects that may prove to be more fruitful.
Monday, January 12, 2009
Summer Travels
Happy New Year! I danced into 2009 at a club in Durban to a song that is currently popular in South Africa – “Where’s your head at?” Yea, I know- flashback- they may as well have played “Party like it’s1999.” But welcome to South Africa, where any song you thought had passed its prime still has a future as a remix.
This holiday season was far different from any other I’ve experienced in my 25 years. For one, it took place over summer vacation and summer in Africa is HOT! Needless to say I only dreamt of snowflakes on my nose and eyelashes. Then it was my first Christmas away from home. I missed out on mounds of wrapping paper and presents, Dad’s French toast, Mom’s homebrewed too-strong Starbuck’s and best of all the remains of Santa’s cookies and milk on the fireplace.
In place of a “traditional” holiday season I experienced a phenomenal three week vacation across Mozambique, Swaziland, and South Africa! I travelled over 6000km with 7 other Peace Corps volunteers in 2 air conditioned (!) VW’s. I saw the landscapes of Southern Africa that until now only existed in photo calendars. What did I actually do for three weeks? Well here is my attempt to bring you a taste of my unforgettable trip. (Minus the inside jokes, laughs, and well. . . the good stuff that can’t be conveyed- only experienced)
We began by meeting at LaTosha’s home which is in the Mpumalanga province. Day one- we drove into Kruger Park and saw zebras, impalas, other animals that looked like impalas, massive pink toed birds, and monkeys. . . then we walked onto a covered viewing platform/deck. We broke out the binoculars and saw yellow, purple, and brilliant blue birds building nests. After hearing a gargling noise underneath we crouched down and looked through the deck planks. Our eyes were met by the massive nostrils of a pregnant hippo. I felt and smelled the pungent noise spray as she exhaled!
The next day we planned on travelling to Blyde River Canyon. On our way we passed through Graskop and saw a canyon with people gliding across! We pulled over. Kristy, a fearless free spirit wanted to do the canyon swing and I agreed to go tandem with her ($22-why not?) - without much thought. As we were geared up for the dive I began laughing ridiculously (in a oh my, what am I doing? Way). The man told us to walk backwards to the edge and place our feet on the footprints. I was shrieking by this point and Kristy was pulling me towards the edge. He then said lean back- I didn’t but all it takes is one and in no time I was screaming- free falling backwards facing the sky. Looking up and falling down, down, down 68m! Until a waterfall came into view and then the swing took over! Instead of bouncing like a bungee cord we swung out across the canyon gorge. What a sight!
Next up we travelled to Blyde River Canyon (which I plan to hike in the near future), 3 Rondavels, God’s Window, and the Potholes. All of these are spectacular lookout points along the Drakensburg mountain range. Final stop for our busy day was to the Echo Caves.
Onto Sabie we went. . . misty, rainy Sabie. I soaked in the backpackers hot tub for too many hours, drank too much wine, and played a ridiculous amount of charades. The next day we planned on river rafting but due to the intense rains we couldn’t. So instead we went kloofing (canyoning) which is essentially rafting without the tube. Donning wetsuits and helmets, we traversed down numerous waterfalls, rocks, vines, and one long stream of cascading water. For those three hours I felt alive and powerful beyond recognition- I loved it. Crawling on all fours to maintain balance on the moss, shimming down a tree, floating in swift moving shallow waters, jumping over fallen trees . . . ahh. The trip ended with a dip in the water of the Mac Mac falls and a hike straight up and out of the canyon. Upon reaching the top we had to crawl through a fence that kept those who were viewing the Mac Mac Falls away from danger! So here we are with mud covered wetsuits and helmets crossing the path of hundreds of fully clothed, camera handy visitors. Someone asked if we were scuba diving! HA
Next came Mozambique. Just for the pure story of it we paid men at the border R50 per car to speed up the immigration process. 2 hours later we had our passports stamped and were on our way to Maputo. (Apparently on a busy day paying these men lets you jump the line.) We entered the coastal city after dark and read signs in Portuguese. We had two great drivers who avoided most of the potholes that we had been warned of. After many hours in the car we were looking forward to our air-conditioned backpackers. With great difficulty we eventually found our backpackers . . . which was without electricity.
As a general rule of thumb throughout the trip we found ourselves making U-turns, getting slightly off course, driving through taxi ranks, and best of all finding the sketchiest areas of town. So it was no surprise when the following day we found not only a delicious coffee shop, our next backpackers, the US embassy, the Peace Corps Mozambique headquarters- but also the shanties of Maputo.
Peace Corps Mozambique headquarters put ours to shame- a view of the ocean, a sundeck, and a personal mail room for volunteers with couches and computers. We met a 3 year PCV who was leaving the following day. He told us he was returning to the states for a month and then moving back to teach at a university! Plus he mentioned where to go out, where to eat, and about his favorite parts of the country.
That night we ate at an open air fish market (that the PCV suggested)- lobster, prawn, red snapper, calamari. . . mmm. We chose the food and then a few men prepared it for us right there. As we waited for our meal to be cooked we were bombarded by men selling crafts- bead work, purses (I bought one!), bracelets, hand-painted posters. Those with the posters held them so that only their eyes would peak over the top. Then they circled our table as we ate- I felt like I was in a rotating museum!
From Maputo we traveled some 8 hours up the coast of Mozambique to Tofo Beach. Beauty took over as we saw the rural villages. Unlike South Africans, the people of coastal Mozambique make homes of thatched palms and other organic material. The land was lush. We saw brick huts that appeared to be for baking bread and women hoeing the fields. Along the road we stopped intermittently for men selling fresh cashews. I loved it.
In Tofo we spent a few days being lazy on the beach, hiking sand dunes, spotting crabs, reading, dancing all night at a club, eating more fresh seafood, and swimming in the cool clear waters of Tofo. (You must see the photos on picasa!)
Swaziland was our next stop. We entered the country with just about a quarter of a tank in each car and glided along some 60 plus km with the gas light on and the gauge below zero. There was NO PETROL in Swaziland (3 gas stations in a row-empty). Later I found a map of this, the smallest country in Africa, and it included the locations of gas stations! HA!
In Swaziland we stayed at a game reserve that has an obnoxious amount of ostriches roaming freely. The first night there we decided to splurge ($22) and rent a thatched roof hut- was it ever worth it! Fresh clean white linens, a bath tub, shower, and best of all. . . AIR CONDITIONING! I slept divinely, needless to say. We braiied (BBQed)- Kelly grilled all sorts of meats, Jeff made pap, and I was in charge of vegetables. We went on a private game drive- by private I mean unauthorized game drive where we spotted warthogs, impala, kudu, and what Andrew thought was a lion. . . ok it was a cow with a lion’s tail? When camping the second night I awoke to a lion moaning. One day we drove literally across the country and went to a great little glass blowing factory. . .I came home with beautiful pieces
The final week and a half of the trip led us back to South Africa. Christmas was in St. Lucia where we camped near a sign that said “Beware of hippos at night.” We saw hippos in their natural environment, mongeese swarmed our campsite, as well as monkeys, we ate more fresh seafood, exchanged “white elephant” gifts, drank mimosas for breakfast, and danced the night away at Monkey Bar. (I’m getting tired of typing, can’t you tell? But mom, I’m doing it for you!)
Next Eshowe – a backpackers and brewery- where we met a strange Africaaner whose sole job was to make sure we had a good time (and we did!) I went for a great hike through the forest, saw massive trees and a short canopy walk. I briefly whipped out the Macarena that night with a random group of Zulu men and Africaaner women.
Onto Warner Beach- I vote this place to be the best backpacker in spite of one feisty manager. Blue Sky Mining was on top of a great hill and you could see the Indian Ocean from our campsite. There was a 3rd story rooftop deck from which you could view both the water and Durban. They had decent food, 2 crystal clear pools, and free boogie/surf board rental. While others went to see Twilight in the theatre (they’re obsessed!) Andrew and I rented a boogie board, strolled down the street, over the railroad, past the drunken men, onto a sand dune . . . straight to the Indian Ocean No one was there- amazing! We took out the boogie board to an area of the raging sea that appeared to be without rocks. . . wrong! I was dragged under and spit out time and again over the rocks and knocked over from waves. For the remainder of the overcast day I stood up to my knees. Later I had a delicious fresh mango smoothie and saw the more populated area of the beach where men were fishing with their poles placed in an extremely phallic place (they even had holsters right there)! Upon returning the boogie board we found out that we shouldn’t have been in the water since the shark nets broke earlier in the month. . .
About this time in the trip I began a head cold and cough- the cough remains. . . New Year’s was spent in Durban- we ate delicious Thai food, Cuban cuisine, drank espresso martinis, bargained for Fedoras, covered the length of Florida street. . . and rang in the New Year’s soaked in sweat on the dance floor! It couldn’t have been any better.
Oh and in regards to the vehicles: in addition to putting many kilometers on them we also lost a hubcap, put 2 holes in the windshield, and lost a cd in the player. . . I’m told it began smoking!
This holiday season was far different from any other I’ve experienced in my 25 years. For one, it took place over summer vacation and summer in Africa is HOT! Needless to say I only dreamt of snowflakes on my nose and eyelashes. Then it was my first Christmas away from home. I missed out on mounds of wrapping paper and presents, Dad’s French toast, Mom’s homebrewed too-strong Starbuck’s and best of all the remains of Santa’s cookies and milk on the fireplace.
In place of a “traditional” holiday season I experienced a phenomenal three week vacation across Mozambique, Swaziland, and South Africa! I travelled over 6000km with 7 other Peace Corps volunteers in 2 air conditioned (!) VW’s. I saw the landscapes of Southern Africa that until now only existed in photo calendars. What did I actually do for three weeks? Well here is my attempt to bring you a taste of my unforgettable trip. (Minus the inside jokes, laughs, and well. . . the good stuff that can’t be conveyed- only experienced)
We began by meeting at LaTosha’s home which is in the Mpumalanga province. Day one- we drove into Kruger Park and saw zebras, impalas, other animals that looked like impalas, massive pink toed birds, and monkeys. . . then we walked onto a covered viewing platform/deck. We broke out the binoculars and saw yellow, purple, and brilliant blue birds building nests. After hearing a gargling noise underneath we crouched down and looked through the deck planks. Our eyes were met by the massive nostrils of a pregnant hippo. I felt and smelled the pungent noise spray as she exhaled!
The next day we planned on travelling to Blyde River Canyon. On our way we passed through Graskop and saw a canyon with people gliding across! We pulled over. Kristy, a fearless free spirit wanted to do the canyon swing and I agreed to go tandem with her ($22-why not?) - without much thought. As we were geared up for the dive I began laughing ridiculously (in a oh my, what am I doing? Way). The man told us to walk backwards to the edge and place our feet on the footprints. I was shrieking by this point and Kristy was pulling me towards the edge. He then said lean back- I didn’t but all it takes is one and in no time I was screaming- free falling backwards facing the sky. Looking up and falling down, down, down 68m! Until a waterfall came into view and then the swing took over! Instead of bouncing like a bungee cord we swung out across the canyon gorge. What a sight!
Next up we travelled to Blyde River Canyon (which I plan to hike in the near future), 3 Rondavels, God’s Window, and the Potholes. All of these are spectacular lookout points along the Drakensburg mountain range. Final stop for our busy day was to the Echo Caves.
Onto Sabie we went. . . misty, rainy Sabie. I soaked in the backpackers hot tub for too many hours, drank too much wine, and played a ridiculous amount of charades. The next day we planned on river rafting but due to the intense rains we couldn’t. So instead we went kloofing (canyoning) which is essentially rafting without the tube. Donning wetsuits and helmets, we traversed down numerous waterfalls, rocks, vines, and one long stream of cascading water. For those three hours I felt alive and powerful beyond recognition- I loved it. Crawling on all fours to maintain balance on the moss, shimming down a tree, floating in swift moving shallow waters, jumping over fallen trees . . . ahh. The trip ended with a dip in the water of the Mac Mac falls and a hike straight up and out of the canyon. Upon reaching the top we had to crawl through a fence that kept those who were viewing the Mac Mac Falls away from danger! So here we are with mud covered wetsuits and helmets crossing the path of hundreds of fully clothed, camera handy visitors. Someone asked if we were scuba diving! HA
Next came Mozambique. Just for the pure story of it we paid men at the border R50 per car to speed up the immigration process. 2 hours later we had our passports stamped and were on our way to Maputo. (Apparently on a busy day paying these men lets you jump the line.) We entered the coastal city after dark and read signs in Portuguese. We had two great drivers who avoided most of the potholes that we had been warned of. After many hours in the car we were looking forward to our air-conditioned backpackers. With great difficulty we eventually found our backpackers . . . which was without electricity.
As a general rule of thumb throughout the trip we found ourselves making U-turns, getting slightly off course, driving through taxi ranks, and best of all finding the sketchiest areas of town. So it was no surprise when the following day we found not only a delicious coffee shop, our next backpackers, the US embassy, the Peace Corps Mozambique headquarters- but also the shanties of Maputo.
Peace Corps Mozambique headquarters put ours to shame- a view of the ocean, a sundeck, and a personal mail room for volunteers with couches and computers. We met a 3 year PCV who was leaving the following day. He told us he was returning to the states for a month and then moving back to teach at a university! Plus he mentioned where to go out, where to eat, and about his favorite parts of the country.
That night we ate at an open air fish market (that the PCV suggested)- lobster, prawn, red snapper, calamari. . . mmm. We chose the food and then a few men prepared it for us right there. As we waited for our meal to be cooked we were bombarded by men selling crafts- bead work, purses (I bought one!), bracelets, hand-painted posters. Those with the posters held them so that only their eyes would peak over the top. Then they circled our table as we ate- I felt like I was in a rotating museum!
From Maputo we traveled some 8 hours up the coast of Mozambique to Tofo Beach. Beauty took over as we saw the rural villages. Unlike South Africans, the people of coastal Mozambique make homes of thatched palms and other organic material. The land was lush. We saw brick huts that appeared to be for baking bread and women hoeing the fields. Along the road we stopped intermittently for men selling fresh cashews. I loved it.
In Tofo we spent a few days being lazy on the beach, hiking sand dunes, spotting crabs, reading, dancing all night at a club, eating more fresh seafood, and swimming in the cool clear waters of Tofo. (You must see the photos on picasa!)
Swaziland was our next stop. We entered the country with just about a quarter of a tank in each car and glided along some 60 plus km with the gas light on and the gauge below zero. There was NO PETROL in Swaziland (3 gas stations in a row-empty). Later I found a map of this, the smallest country in Africa, and it included the locations of gas stations! HA!
In Swaziland we stayed at a game reserve that has an obnoxious amount of ostriches roaming freely. The first night there we decided to splurge ($22) and rent a thatched roof hut- was it ever worth it! Fresh clean white linens, a bath tub, shower, and best of all. . . AIR CONDITIONING! I slept divinely, needless to say. We braiied (BBQed)- Kelly grilled all sorts of meats, Jeff made pap, and I was in charge of vegetables. We went on a private game drive- by private I mean unauthorized game drive where we spotted warthogs, impala, kudu, and what Andrew thought was a lion. . . ok it was a cow with a lion’s tail? When camping the second night I awoke to a lion moaning. One day we drove literally across the country and went to a great little glass blowing factory. . .I came home with beautiful pieces
The final week and a half of the trip led us back to South Africa. Christmas was in St. Lucia where we camped near a sign that said “Beware of hippos at night.” We saw hippos in their natural environment, mongeese swarmed our campsite, as well as monkeys, we ate more fresh seafood, exchanged “white elephant” gifts, drank mimosas for breakfast, and danced the night away at Monkey Bar. (I’m getting tired of typing, can’t you tell? But mom, I’m doing it for you!)
Next Eshowe – a backpackers and brewery- where we met a strange Africaaner whose sole job was to make sure we had a good time (and we did!) I went for a great hike through the forest, saw massive trees and a short canopy walk. I briefly whipped out the Macarena that night with a random group of Zulu men and Africaaner women.
Onto Warner Beach- I vote this place to be the best backpacker in spite of one feisty manager. Blue Sky Mining was on top of a great hill and you could see the Indian Ocean from our campsite. There was a 3rd story rooftop deck from which you could view both the water and Durban. They had decent food, 2 crystal clear pools, and free boogie/surf board rental. While others went to see Twilight in the theatre (they’re obsessed!) Andrew and I rented a boogie board, strolled down the street, over the railroad, past the drunken men, onto a sand dune . . . straight to the Indian Ocean No one was there- amazing! We took out the boogie board to an area of the raging sea that appeared to be without rocks. . . wrong! I was dragged under and spit out time and again over the rocks and knocked over from waves. For the remainder of the overcast day I stood up to my knees. Later I had a delicious fresh mango smoothie and saw the more populated area of the beach where men were fishing with their poles placed in an extremely phallic place (they even had holsters right there)! Upon returning the boogie board we found out that we shouldn’t have been in the water since the shark nets broke earlier in the month. . .
About this time in the trip I began a head cold and cough- the cough remains. . . New Year’s was spent in Durban- we ate delicious Thai food, Cuban cuisine, drank espresso martinis, bargained for Fedoras, covered the length of Florida street. . . and rang in the New Year’s soaked in sweat on the dance floor! It couldn’t have been any better.
Oh and in regards to the vehicles: in addition to putting many kilometers on them we also lost a hubcap, put 2 holes in the windshield, and lost a cd in the player. . . I’m told it began smoking!
Tuesday, December 9, 2008
School's Out
Woke diagonal, limbs flailed on my brand new, never used double bed. Phenomenal. . practically open the windows and scream to the goats “I am alive!”- Phenomenal. After 59 nights alternating between a yoga mat and hammock, the Department of Education literally delivered.
Walked to school in a dress that I knew my coworkers would love (bright green, cute shape that shows off all my new curves). The learners did not have to go to school. Therefore I heard cries of “M-oh-lly”, “Maam M-oh-lly”, and my favorite “M-oh-lly Murrrrphy” from most homes. I am not sure I have stressed the celebrity status that follows PC volunteers. Let me tell you, it’s intense. Kids call my name from the distance of a city block on a daily basis. This is met by my looking in the general direction of the sound and squinting to see if I can see a small waving outline. I am pretty honest and don’t wave back unless I can actually see the child. Then there are usually 2 kids who accompany me on the walk to school.
Came into school by 7 and attended assembly at 8 in the boardroom. Before the headmaster arrived at assembly Serepo, a boastful teacher, told me “Molly, lead the song today.” I looked at him and told him I do not like to sing in front of people. He again said “Molly, why don’t you lead.” Just then the headmaster entered and said “How can a man you has never led a song tell another to?” About half of the 23 teachers laughed and I gave Serepo the eye. The friendly “HA” eye and smirk.
After a song, Bible reading, and Our Father I met with Constance to discuss what content I should plan to cover next year. I will be teaching 4th grade Natural Science for 2 periods a day. I then met with Nora to discuss the “Junior Authors” project we will be beginning next year. Finally, I met with the Deputy-Headmaster to discuss creating a master timetable for next year. He was amazed at how quickly I whipped up an excel file. We knocked-off at about 1 after another song and prayer.
Walking home I heard my name- looked, saw no one. Again my name being called from the same place. I shaded my eyes with a hand and noticed two children in the tree. I called “I see a pink and blue mamba up in a tree!”
Opening the gate to my yard I saw nothing, no one. You see it’s summer vacation. My sisters and brothers went to the cities to stay with their mothers for the holiday. So I sprawled on my bed until I decided to make kipi-kipi (popcorn). Just as it started to burn Athlida called out “ko-ko” (knock-knock). For the next 4 hours we enjoyed each others company . . we drew with colored pencils, she combed my hair, I painted her nails, we were silent for the most part. How I love that Just interruptions for sporadic comments and laughter. Such as: how boys holding hands in America would not be normal, that there are flies in America, that although I wear a ring I am not engaged, that although I wear an anklet I am not ill, that Althida finds the chicken feet good, but chicken brains to be the best- but the eyes. . .no way they ::burst:: in your mouth!, that in Sepedi there is a different word for the boogers that drip (mamina) and those that stay there all day (konkodi).
Once Athlida’s mom called her home for the 3rd time I walked her to the gate and found my mama working. She was repaving? fixing? the courtyard. She was mixing fresh cow feces (as the children here call poop prior to poking it with a stick) with dirt and cementing the courtyard. I thought that feces was just a polish to make the cement have a nice green color. But who would have thought- mixed with dirt it’s a great cement!
My day ended with a trip to the field to burn my rubbish. No longer does it take half a box of matches. I have mastered the art of burning garbage- I use a lighter. As Leah said a few weeks ago “I wonder if we will ever again question what can be thrown in the campfire.” True. Once the fire started I took a victory leap over the fire and took a deep inhale of the trash. . . which surprisingly smells like cinnamon.
I just sat down to write this and put on some Sufjan Stevens. As the song “Illinois” played I opened my internet and laughed at the headlines concerning our comically ignorant soon to be imprisoned governor, Blago!
Walked to school in a dress that I knew my coworkers would love (bright green, cute shape that shows off all my new curves). The learners did not have to go to school. Therefore I heard cries of “M-oh-lly”, “Maam M-oh-lly”, and my favorite “M-oh-lly Murrrrphy” from most homes. I am not sure I have stressed the celebrity status that follows PC volunteers. Let me tell you, it’s intense. Kids call my name from the distance of a city block on a daily basis. This is met by my looking in the general direction of the sound and squinting to see if I can see a small waving outline. I am pretty honest and don’t wave back unless I can actually see the child. Then there are usually 2 kids who accompany me on the walk to school.
Came into school by 7 and attended assembly at 8 in the boardroom. Before the headmaster arrived at assembly Serepo, a boastful teacher, told me “Molly, lead the song today.” I looked at him and told him I do not like to sing in front of people. He again said “Molly, why don’t you lead.” Just then the headmaster entered and said “How can a man you has never led a song tell another to?” About half of the 23 teachers laughed and I gave Serepo the eye. The friendly “HA” eye and smirk.
After a song, Bible reading, and Our Father I met with Constance to discuss what content I should plan to cover next year. I will be teaching 4th grade Natural Science for 2 periods a day. I then met with Nora to discuss the “Junior Authors” project we will be beginning next year. Finally, I met with the Deputy-Headmaster to discuss creating a master timetable for next year. He was amazed at how quickly I whipped up an excel file. We knocked-off at about 1 after another song and prayer.
Walking home I heard my name- looked, saw no one. Again my name being called from the same place. I shaded my eyes with a hand and noticed two children in the tree. I called “I see a pink and blue mamba up in a tree!”
Opening the gate to my yard I saw nothing, no one. You see it’s summer vacation. My sisters and brothers went to the cities to stay with their mothers for the holiday. So I sprawled on my bed until I decided to make kipi-kipi (popcorn). Just as it started to burn Athlida called out “ko-ko” (knock-knock). For the next 4 hours we enjoyed each others company . . we drew with colored pencils, she combed my hair, I painted her nails, we were silent for the most part. How I love that Just interruptions for sporadic comments and laughter. Such as: how boys holding hands in America would not be normal, that there are flies in America, that although I wear a ring I am not engaged, that although I wear an anklet I am not ill, that Althida finds the chicken feet good, but chicken brains to be the best- but the eyes. . .no way they ::burst:: in your mouth!, that in Sepedi there is a different word for the boogers that drip (mamina) and those that stay there all day (konkodi).
Once Athlida’s mom called her home for the 3rd time I walked her to the gate and found my mama working. She was repaving? fixing? the courtyard. She was mixing fresh cow feces (as the children here call poop prior to poking it with a stick) with dirt and cementing the courtyard. I thought that feces was just a polish to make the cement have a nice green color. But who would have thought- mixed with dirt it’s a great cement!
My day ended with a trip to the field to burn my rubbish. No longer does it take half a box of matches. I have mastered the art of burning garbage- I use a lighter. As Leah said a few weeks ago “I wonder if we will ever again question what can be thrown in the campfire.” True. Once the fire started I took a victory leap over the fire and took a deep inhale of the trash. . . which surprisingly smells like cinnamon.
I just sat down to write this and put on some Sufjan Stevens. As the song “Illinois” played I opened my internet and laughed at the headlines concerning our comically ignorant soon to be imprisoned governor, Blago!
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